Tag Archives: forequarters

Front & Center

Barb Manson

Written by Barbara Manson

As you will recall, with the last article, we were standing at the front of the dog and examining the head.  Now it’s time to put our hands on his body to see if what our eyes have been telling us about him is really what he is.  Imagine a beautifully manicured and sculpted specials dog, perfectly stacked, in glorious flowing coat.  When we viewed him from the side, he appeared to have lots of forechest.  Now we’ll see if it’s an illusion of skillful grooming or if it’s the real deal.  We will not be fooled!

2015 North country
Photographer Bob Segal, 2015 North Country Specialty

Begin by running your hand from below the throat, down the front of the dog and between his front legs.  Note the pro-sternum.  It’s the prominent bump at the midline of the chest.  It’s the foremost point of the dogs body.  When viewed from the side, you will note that it arises at a level with, or slightly below, the point of juncture of the upper arm and the shoulder blade.  The standard says “Chest deep and not broad in front; the ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room.  The chest reaches the elbows. A pronounced forechest is in evidence.”  The chest is an extension of the dogs body.  As you run your hand over this area, it should feel well developed and filled in, rather than as a hollow space between his front legs.  With your eyes, examine the dogs front feet.  Are they pointing straight ahead?  Is the handler having difficulty correctly stacking the front or is the dog having trouble maintaining that stack comfortably?  If the feet are pointing forward, and the dog is not toeing out, do the front feet appear to be rolling outward so the dog seems to be standing on the outside of his feet.  These are dead giveaways that all is not right with the front.  Most often this is caused by an underdeveloped chest, lack in depth of body or lack of spring of rib.  If the dog had these things, they would push the elbows outward and away from the body, so the front feet would be in proper alignment.  I should note here that this is not to be confused with the natural tendency of dogs, in a relaxed position, to toe out slightly.  Most will do this and, by itself, should not be cause for concern, though we would prefer not to show it to the judge in the ring.  Many puppies also go through developmental stages where this is common.

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Photographer Bob Segal, 2015 North Country Specialty

 

Put your hand on the dogs body directly behind the elbow and note the depth of body.  The body, or brisket, should reach the elbow.  In practice, I’ve know some Gordons where the depth of body actually extended a little beyond the elbow.  Next, run your hand along the upper arm and the shoulder blade.  Is there approximately equal length from the point of the upper arm, down to the back of the elbow and from, once again, the point of the upper arm to the shoulder, to create the “90 degree angle” called for in the standard?  If you have these things, this dog will stand, when correctly stacked, with his front legs under his withers.  Imagine him, for a moment, without all the coat.  Let’s say you found that proper, well developed forechest and this dog has the correct front angles.  Because of these things, a “pronounced forechest will be in evidence”.  You felt it and if he didn’t have the coat, you could easily see it.  Given his angles, and substance, it will appear to be greater than that of the pointer.  In practice, and for the purpose of discussion, these aspects are often collectively referred to as the front piece and assessed as a unit rather than separately as forequarters and chest.  All the individual pieces are interrelated and responsible for how the front assembly functions.

 

Now, let’s turn our attention to the top line.  Step away from the dog and position yourself a few feet away, looking squarely at his profile.  Spend a minute or two assessing him.  Note his neck, “long, lean and arched to the head”.  If he is short on neck or his neck does not flow seamlessly into the topline (back) there is a problem with the shoulder.  Is the topline “moderately sloping” to the tail?  The standard calls for the loin to be “short and broad and not arched”.  The line from withers to croup should be solid, flat and straight. The standard calls for the croup to be nearly flat, with only a slight slope to the tailhead”.  The tail is an extension of the back. The standard says ” short and not reaching below the hocks”.  Notice the length of body.  The standard says the body should be “short from shoulder to hips”.  We are looking for a dog who appears to be about as long as he is tall.  At this point I will caution you not to let your eye wander to his rear extension.  On a well angulated dog, there is a tendency to be fooled on body length by what’s behind him and how far his handler has stretched his rear.  Look only at his height and his back to determine length of back.

North Country
Photo by Bob Segal 2015 North Country Specialty

So why is the topline so important?  Years ago, I attended a seminar given by Dr. Quentin Laham.  He was an expert on canine structure and movement.  He always brought with him a skeleton of his German Shepherd, who he maintained, when he was alive, was an excellent example of his breed.  In Dr Laham’s opinion, the back was the foundation on which the rest of canine structure was built, and I believe he was right.  Without soundness, our dogs cannot do the job they were bred to do.  With long backs, you can see toplines sag over time.  There is a natural dip in the center of the back which is the area affected.  There are exceptions to this though and I’ve known a few.  I’ve also known of many where this scenario played out and was indeed the case.  Short backs tend to be strong backs.  If you look at the skeletal photo provided in one of the early articles, you can see the natural dip followed by a rise and slight arch of the lumbar vertebrae over the loin.  The dip provides the dog with flexibility of the back for movement.  You can imagine how this is used if you think of the dog at a full gallop.  This area of the back and the loin are covered with muscle in a sound, fit and fully mature specimen of the breed, which lends itself to the flawless topline we are looking for.

North Country digger
Photo by Bob Segal, 2015 North Country Specialty

The tail should be straight.  I believe an older version of the standard made reference to “collie tails”.  Obviously we’ve made improvements because I haven’t seen one in years, but they are still back there.  We used to see more long tails and they were most generally found on long backed dogs.  The standard calls for the tail to “not be docked, thick at the root and finishing in a fine point”.  It’s common to dock the tip of the tail of a puppy born with a kink.  This can be done for aesthetic reasons or for the health of the puppy because, in the case of a tight kink, it can leave the pup open to skin infections at the site.  A judge running his hand down the tail and measuring it against the hock can easily tell the “fine point” is not there if the tail is docked.  We will talk more about tail carriage when movement is discussed in the future.  Of note to exhibitors, Gordon tails are to carried “horizontal or nearly so”, so when hand stacking your dog, keep this in mind.  This was definitely something I needed to work on!

75% Genes Fit
MY GENES FIT!  Artwork by Diane Nowak

I hope many of you are heading to Ohio for the National.  Please make note of our GSCA Breeder Education “Hands On” at the show site to be held Wednesday May 11, exact time to be determined.  We will be going over dogs and critiquing for positive attributes only.  Also, at various times throughout the National  and during  the Hands on Program we’ll be measuring heights and comparing to weight for our “My Genes Fit” program demonstrating the variance in size that is correct in the Gordon Setter breed. Bring your dogs by to participate and earn your dog’s fabulous My Genes Fit tags.

We invite everyone to drop by and bring a dog if you have one.  See you in Ohio!2016-national-logo

Barbara Manson, Stoughton WI

Photographer – Bob Segal , Chicago IL

Please note: The photos in this article are provided for your viewing pleasure and are not intended to illustrate any fault mentioned in the article.

Official Standard for the Gordon Setter

AKC-Logo3Approved October 7, 2002

Effective November 27, 2002

General Appearance: The Gordon Setter is a good-sized, sturdily built, black and tan dog, well muscled, with plenty of bone and substance, but active, upstanding and stylish, appearing capable of doing a full day’s work in the field. He has a strong, rather short back, with well sprung ribs and a short tail. The head is fairly heavy and finely chiseled. His bearing is intelligent, noble, and dignified, showing no signs of shyness or viciousness. Clear colors and straight or slightly waved coat are correct. He suggests strength and stamina rather than extreme speed. Symmetry and quality are most essential. A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with outstanding good qualities and defects. A smooth, free movement, with high head carriage, is typical.
Size, Proportion, Substance: Size  – Shoulder height for males, 24 to 27 inches; females, 23 to 26 inches. Weight for males, 55 to 80 pounds; females, 45 to 70 pounds. Animals that appear to be over or under the prescribed weight limits are to be judged on the basis of conformation and condition. Extremely thin or fat dogs are discouraged on the basis that under or overweight hampers the true working ability of the Gordon Setter.  The weight-to-height ratio makes him heavier than other Setters. Proportion The distance from the forechest to the back of the thigh is approximately equal the height from the ground to the withers. The Gordon Setter has plenty of bone and substance.standard
Head:  Head deep, rather than broad, with plenty of brain room. Eyes of fair size, neither too deep-set nor too bulging, dark brown, bright and wise. The shape is oval rather than round. The lids are tight. Ears set low on the head approximately on line with the eyes, fairly large and thin, well folded and carried close to the head. Skull nicely rounded, good-sized, broadest between the ears. Below and above the eyes is lean and the cheeks as narrow as the leanness of the head allows. The head should have a clearly indicated stop. Muzzle fairly long and not pointed, either as seen from above or from the side. The flews are not pendulous. The muzzle is the same length as the skull from occiput to stop and the top of the muzzle is parallel to the line of the skull extended. Nose broad, with open nostrils and black in color. The lip line from the nose to the flews shows a sharp, well-defined, square contour. Teeth strong and white, meeting in front in a scissors bite, with the upper incisors slightly forward of the lower incisors. A level bite is not a fault. Pitted teeth from distemper or allied infections are not penalized.
Neck, Topline, Body:  Neck long, lean, arched to the head, and without throatiness. Topline moderately sloping. Body short from shoulder to hips. Chest deep and not too broad in front; the ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room. The chest reaches to the elbows. A pronounced forechest is in evidence. Loins short and broad and not arched. Croup nearly flat, with only a slight slope to the tailhead. Tail short and not reaching below the hocks, carried horizontal or nearly so, not docked, thick at the root and finishing in a fine point. The placement of the tail is important for correct carriage. When the angle of the tail bends too sharply at the first coccygeal bone, the tail will be carried too gaily or will droop. The tail placement is judged in relationship to the structure of the croup.
Forequarters: Shoulders fine at the points, and laying well back. The tops of the shoulder blades are close together. When viewed from behind, the neck appears to fit into the shoulders in smooth, flat lines that gradually widen from neck to shoulder. The angle formed by the shoulder blade and upper arm bone is approximately 90 degrees when the dog is standing so that the foreleg is perpendicular to the ground. Forelegs big-boned, straight and not bowed, with elbows free and not turned in or out. Pasterns are strong, short and nearly vertical with a slight spring. Dewclaws may be removed. Feet catlike in shape, formed by close knit, well arched toes with plenty of hair between; with full toe pads and deep heel cushions. Feet are not turned in or out.
Hindquarters: The hind legs from hip to hock are long, flat and muscular; from hock to heel, short and strong. The stifle and hock joints are well bent and not turned either in or out. When the dog is standing with the rear pastern perpendicular to the ground, the thighbone hangs downward parallel to an imaginary line drawn upward from the hock. Feet as in front.
Coat:  Soft and shining, straight or slightly waved, but not curly, with long hair on ears, under stomach and on chest, on back of the fore and hind legs, and on the tail. The feather which starts near the root of the tail is slightly waved or straight, having a triangular appearance, growing shorter uniformly toward the end.
Color and Markings:  Black with tan markings, either of rich chestnut or mahogany color. Black penciling is allowed on the toes. The borderline between black and tan colors is clearly defined. There are not any tan hairs mixed in the black. The tan markings are located as follows: (1) Two clear spots over the eyes and not over three quarters of an inch in diameter; (2) On the sides of the muzzle. The tan does not reach to the top of the muzzle, but resembles a stripe around the end of the muzzle from one side to the other; (3) On the throat; (4) Two large clear spots on the chest; (5) On the inside of the hind legs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to the outside of the hind legs from the hock to the toes. It must not completely eliminate the black on the back of the hind legs; (6) On the forelegs from the carpus, or a little above, downward to the toes; (7) Around the vent; (8) A white spot on the chest is allowed, but the smaller the better. Predominantly tan, red or buff dogs which do not have the typical pattern of markings of a Gordon Setter are ineligible for showing and undesirable for breeding. Predominantly tan, red or buff dogs are ineligible for showing and undesirable for breeding.
Gait:  A bold, strong, driving free swinging gait. The head is carried up and the tail “flags” constantly while the dog is in motion. When viewed from the front, the forefeet move up and down in straight lines so that the shoulder, elbow and pastern joints are approximately in line. When viewed from the rear the hock, stifle and hip joints are approximately in line. Thus the dog moves in a straight pattern forward without throwing the feet in or out. When viewed from the side, the forefeet are seen to lift up and reach forward to compensate for the driving hindquarters. The hindquarters reach well forward and stretch far back, enabling the stride to be long and the drive powerful. The overall appearance of the moving dog is one of smooth flowing, well balanced rhythm, in which the action is pleasing to the eye, effortless, economical and harmonious.
Temperament:  The Gordon Setter is alert, gay, interested, and confident. He is fearless and willing, intelligent and capable. He is loyal and affectionate, and strong minded enough to stand the rigors of training.
Disqualification:  Predominantly tan, red or buff dogs.
Scale of Points
To be used as a guide when judging the Gordon Setter:
10  Head and neck (include ears and eyes)
15 Body
10 Shoulders, forelegs, forefeet
10 Hind legs and feet
 5  Tail
 8  Coat
 5  Color and markings
10 Temperament
15 Size, general appearance
12 Gait

100 Total

Approved October 7, 2002
Effective November 27, 2002